
Pasteurized Sheep's Milk | Aged 1 year plus
Produced By Sini Fulvi 20 miles North of Rome, Italy
This is the last Pecorino Romano actually made on the boot. The rest are made in Sardinia. Most Romano available is almost flavorless; it is simply a dried out salty husk. The Fulvi family's Romano is a burst of awsome saltyness, but it also has a big sheepy note. It adds that rustic, gamey flavor to anything it's grated on, and it makes a great antipasto cheese.
Rennet: Animal
Pairings: Southern Italian Whites, Dark Lager.
Pasteurized Cow (primarily the Bruna breed) | Aged 1 Year
Made in the Northernmost part of the Veneto at Cooperativa Lattebusche
Piave is a wonderful example of how larger scale production can actually be good for local, artisan production and ensure great cheese. In the Dolomite mountains, where Veneto, Friuli, and Alto Adige converge, there is a great tradition of making cheese from the milk of the local Bruna breed. In fact it was practically the only way to eek out an existance in that high and lonely place. As the Venetian republic fell in the early 18th century, it shattered the fragile local economy. After a period of economic turmoil, cooperative dairying proved a salvation for the local herdsmen. Just such a cooperative produces Piave, and their production is immense by any standard. Yet the cheese they produce, particularly the older versions available to us in the states are a marvel of flavor. The Cheese has a dense firm paste that crumbles before it bends and a silky texture in the mouth with hints of cashews, cream, and a faint hint of grass.
Rennet: Animal
Pairings: Lambrusco, Chardonnay, Northeastern Italian reds, American Lager
Pasteurized Goat | Aged 2-3 weeks
Made in Perigord by Picandine
Matured only 8-10 days, Pico is a precocious little cheese. It develops more flavor in that time than many goat cheeses do in 30 days. The cheeses have a dusting of yeast on the rind, and an incredible barnyard smell. If you cut one open, you'll find a bulging paste with a slightly chalky center. The barnyard note is slightly more restrained in the cheese, and makes a nice compliment to the flavors of hay, salt, and cream.
Rennet: Animal
Pairings: Barbera, Nebbiolo, Prosecco
Raw milk from their herd of crossbreed cattle |
Made in Dodgeville, WI by Uplands Cheese Co. Master CM: Mike Gingrich, now made by Andy.
Uplands Cheese Company was founded in 1994 by two families in Southern Wisconsin. It started as simply a cooperative dairy, for the purpose of easing the burden on both families. Eventually they agreed that their milk was something special and they wanted to try their hand at cheese making. They decided on an old Beaufort recipe, and attempted their first batch of cheese. One of the cheeses from that batch ended up taking first in show at the ACS show in 2001, and launched them into the world of high profile American farmstead cheese. Since then, they repeated their victory again in 2005, and have continued to improve their basic recipe. The cheese is classic alpine style all the way. It tastes like nuts and clarified butter. The piquancy is very restrained, but the subtle funk from the repeated washings of the rind pervades the cheese, and gives it a depth of flavor all its own.
Rennet: Animal
Pairings: Brown Beer, Sherry, Swiss Fendant, Alpine Whites.
Raw Friesian Holstien Cow's Milk | Aged 8-12 months
Made by David and Jo Clarke on Sparkenhoe Farm, near Upton Leicestershire.
In 2005 David and Jo Clarke decieded to revive Red Leicester, a dead cheese with a rich history. The cheese distinguished itself from Cheshire sometime in the late 1700's and by 1790 had been regarded the equal of Stilton. In the 1850's production began to decline and the MMB finally killed it off during the wars. Sparkenhoe farm is an ideal place for the revival, as the Chapman family made cheese there from 1745-1875. The rival version is a fabulous cheese. It has a dense crumbly paste that desolves on your tounge into a savory burst of salt and tangyness, a meaty note, and a deep chocolaty base tone.
Rennet: Animal
Pairings: Bitter, other ales, Whiskey of any sort.
It's not cheese |
Made in Italy
Ricotta is a solution to the by product of cheese making, whey. Rather than throwing it out where it will rot and stink. You can heat it, and cause the remining proteins, which don't coagulate in the intial cheesemaking process, to form a second curd. Of course you can eat that fresh product, or you can salt it and age it. The result is Ricotta Salata (literaly Re cooked Salted). Its salty flavor and mealy texture are great shaved on soup, salad, and pasta, but you can also eat it out of hand.
Rennet: None
Pairings: Vhino Verde, Torrontes, Cavi, Txakoli
Pasteurized Cow's Milk | Aged 2-3 months.
Made by King's Island Dairy, King's Island, Tasmania.
Roaring 40's is what you get when you try to do Danish blue right. Normally we avoid Blues sealed in wax, but this guy is fantastic cheese. Inside the wax rind is a very soft, rich paste, and a strong full flavored mold. The cheese has a slight fruity note, which is generally more pronounced in (our) winter. It tastes almost like blueberries.
Rennet: Vegetarian
Pairings: Porter and Stout, sweet sparkling wines, Scotch
Pasteurized Cow and Sheep |
Made on the border of Lombardy and Piedmont in the Alta Langa, We buy from two producers: Casificio del Alta Langa (Robiola Bosina) and Guffanti.
Italy's answer to Brie. The Due Latte Robiolas have everything Brie's got and then some. The paste is always perfectly ripe, hovering between bulging and runny, with a slightly sour note that gives way to a hearty richness, that's the sheeps milk at work. You'll also note flavors of mushroom and garlic, and a slight funky quality that knocks it up a notch.
Rennet: Animal
Pairings: Barbera, Nebbiolo, Prosecco
Pasteurized Cow, Sheep, and Goat |
Made on the border of Lombardy and Piedmont in the Alta Langa, We buy from two producers, Casificio del Alta Langa (La Tur) and Guffanti
Another variant on the small mountain cheeses of Northern Italy. This behaves almost like a pure goats milk cheese. Under the thin crust there is a racy line of runny, salty, zippy cheese, and a thick, chalky, slightly sour core. The goat's milk adds flavors of barnyard and lemony notes. The cow's milk provides the body and the sour cream note. The sheep's milk shows up in the long lingering finish.
Rennet: Animal
Pairings: Piedmont, Provencal, and Rhone Whites.
Raw Sheep's Milk | Aged 6 months and up
Produced by Punta del Esca, in Navarre, Spain
The ur sheep cheese, this guy has been made the same way, by the same 13 villages, for the last 3000 years. It's a prime example of what sheeps milk is all about with an aroma like buttered popcorn and a nutty, meaty flavor that lingers in the mouth, with only a faint hint of sheep.
Rennet: Animal
Pairings: Red wine of any sort, Dark Lager, Gin and Vodka
Raw Sheep's Milk | Aged 3 months and up.
Made by the concern of Gabriel Coulet, in Rouergue/ Les Causses, France.
Coulet's Roquefort production began in "la petit cave", a small wine celler he dug under his house in 1872. In it, he discovered a fleurine, one of the keys to the caves that make roquefort famous. Coulet is one of a handful of producers that make Roquefort, and one of the three best. Roquefort is easily one of the best cheeses in the world. Its paste is salty, sticky and crumbly; It is both sharp and sweet, with a long sheeps milk finsh and a biting blue mold. You'ld be hard pressed to find stronger cheese or a better finish to a meal.
Rennet: Animal
Pairings: Sauternes or Eisbok
Pasteurized Cow | Aged 1-3 Months
Made by La Societe des Fromages a Vire dans le Calvados in Normandy, France
St. Andre is perhaps the most popular triple cream in the world. Widely available, it is slightly more stable than other triple creams, due to a chalky underripe center which rarely "blonds" (the french word for what triple creams do when fully ripe.) The flavor is akin to cultured butter, and the innocuous rind is perfectly edible. The paste will be yielding, but not runny, with a crumbly chevre like center.
Rennet: Vegitarian
Pairings: Champagne and Pilsner
Pasteurized Goat's Milk | Aged 2-3 Weeks
Made By Fromagerie Jaquin, in the Cher, Indre, and Loire-et-Cher, Loire Valley, France.
When the moors were forced out of France, they left behind goats and recepies for cheese. In the Loire, the tradition stuck, and blossomed as every village made its own local speciality, in hundreds of shapes and sizes. Selles-sur-Cher is a small disc shaped round. The cheese is coated in ash to encourage mold development on the rind. Stinky Bklyn aquires the cheese at about 1 week of age, and ages the cheese another 1-2 weeks. We look for the cheese to be denser and chalkier, and to develop a salty, flinty, goaty backbone to counter the naturally tart flavor of the cheese.
Rennet: Animal
Pairings: Sauvignon Blanc, Rhone reds, and Cabernet Franc. Also excellent with Hungarian Tokaji, and Off Dry wines from Anjou.
Raw Organic Fresian-Holstein Cow's Milk |
Made at Collingthwithe Farm, Nottinghamshire, Central England Made by Joe Schnieder, in partnership with Randolph Hodgson
Stilcheton is the way Stilton should be. Stilton achieved its first protections via a trademark lawsuit in 1910, in 1967 the Stilton makers association was able to rewrite their definition so they could make Stilton in mass quantities. The first casualty here was raw milk; now all Stilton must be pasteurized by law. In an effort to produce Stilton like it was before it left the farm, the folks who brought you Neal's Yard Dairy have brought you this cheese. They took the oldest extant recipie for raw Stilton from Colston Basset, and began to modify it for use on the farm. After a year of esperimentation, the cheese has finally come into it's own. It tastes similar to the Colston Basset Stilton(animal rennet version) with a crumbly yet creamy paste, a hint of nuttyness, and a gentle unfurling blue. The raw milk adds a gorgeous earthy-animal note to the finish.
Rennet: Animal Rennet (Calf)
Pairings: Ports, Imperial Stouts, Highland Single Malts.
Raw Cow | Aged 60-90 days.
Made by Ca D'Ambros
Tallegio is Italy's entrant in the world of washed rind. Taleggio is made in the picturesque valleys of the north central italian mountains. The cheese is a perfect intro to the washed rind style. It smells to high heaven, but the flavor is actually pretty mellow. The flavor is beefy and slightly lactic, with mushrooms...well it's kinda like beef stroganoff.
Rennet: Animal
Pairings: Medium to full bodied whites, Prosecco, Pilsner
Pasteurized Cow's Milk | Aged 60 Days +
Made By Fromagerie Schmidhauset in the Savoie, France
A new Cheese invented by affinuer Max Schmidhauser, Tomme Crayeuse looks like it might be like Tomme de Savoie until you cut it and discover the melting, perfect paste that dwells within. The cheese has two distinct ripeness levels: a slightly under ripe center that is chalky and tart, and an edge that is creamy, racey, and just about the best stuff ever. If your lucky that edge will have almost or completely overtaken the center. The cheese will be runny, and a mix of sour and salty, with a hint of grass, beef, and a strong vegital flavor.
Rennet: Animal
Pairings: Pilsner, Champagne and other sparklers. Pinot Noir.
Raw Cow | Aged 6 months to 1 year and up
Produced at Bravo Farms Cheese Factory in Traver, California.
Made using a 500 year old Edam recepie, Tulare Cannonball is an incredibly well made cheese, and uses the excellent milk from Bravo's family run farm. Unfortunately Bravo Farms only ages the cheese 6 months, which is not enough time to develop the sweet spicy flavors this cheese is capable of. We at Stinky age this cheese out to a minimum of one year. At a year the cheese is like aged gouda light. It's smooth and moist yet dense and toothsome. The flavor has a tad more sharpness then gouda, and some but not all of the butterscotch flavor.
Rennet: Vegetarian
Pairings: Belgian Beer and Whiskey of all sorts.
Pasteurized Cow's and Goat's Milk | Aged 4-6 months.
Made in the Asturias Mountains of Spain
The blues of the Asturias are the most ferocious beasts in the cheese world. Valdeon and its ilk are the bluest of the blues, the strongest of the strong. They are wrapped in chestnut leaves, and allowed to develop natural rinds during aging. This does little for the cheese, as the subtle fruity and nutty flavors the paste develops are blown out of the water by the profusion of blue. Its like chugging hot sauce, or taking your tongue to a belt sander. Eat with caution!
Rennet: Animal
Pairings: Pedro Ximenez and Port.
Raw Churra and Castellana Sheep |
In and around Zamora, Spain.
The only real difference between this guy and his better known cousin Manchego is the place of origin, as both cheeses follow an identical recipie common to the central Spanish plains. However, the predominance of the Churra breed, which gives particularly good milk, and smaller production insure that the quality of Zamorano is generally better than its more commercialized cousins. Look for all of the usual tells of sheep's milk. Nutty and buttery, with a lactic tang, and a long lingering finish with a slight whisp of wool.
Rennet: Animal
Pairings: Any and All reds, particularly the rustic styles of Southwest France, and Spain. Also Excellent with Sherry.
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